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There isn't one right answer to this, as a lot of variables are involved (cultivar of the plants, soil moisture retention rates, maturity of plants, number of fruit, etc) -- basically, it will vary from location to location. For the most part, we recommend "water and watch" -- pick a watering cycle and monitor the health of the plants so you can adjust accordingly. With that said, during the hottest part of summer (often around 100° here too) I typically water my garden fruit and vegetables for 30 minutes, twice per day using 0.5 GPH emitters. Your optimal cycles will likely be a little different, but you can use that get a rough idea -- for example, my soil moisture retention isn't great (I really need to get more mulch) so I have to add that second cycle in the evening. When experimenting with watering cycles, always remember it's easy to add more water at almost any time, but not to remove water, so I like to err on the side of potentially too little when first picking a cycle. Also, don't use the wet circle on top of the soil as a benchmark -- when done correctly, drip irrigation should only leave a small wet circle on the surface, all the action happens beneath the surface of the soil. You can dig around a little after a watering cycle to see how the water spread -- remember, for most plants you want it to be moist, but not wet :)

No real functional difference :) The Tee filter works good for hose bibs that are low to the ground, the Tee shape allows the head assembly to go horizontal instead of vertical -- but other than shape, they're pretty much identical.

Any time! :)

If the plants are good with having wet foliage, a Fan Jet could definitely work here -- they cover a reasonable area so you can get pretty good coverage with just a few of them. They put out quite a lot of water, so you'll want to make sure to plan for the flow rate of the system (the sum of the flow rate of all fan jets operating at once) versus the flow rate of the water source. If this was previously feeding a sprinkler system, you'll likely have plenty of flow though :) Labor wise, they're pretty equal, with fan jets likely being a little bit less since you need fewer of them -- either way isn't too bad though, except on very large landscapes.

@@dripdepot thank you for your advice ! I really appreciate it!

I've never used one before, but I just took a look at some of their literature and videos, and I do think they'd work well -- like "Bite" and "Loc" fittings they work with a range of sizes which is always handy, and I like how they work as a socket fitting (inserting the pipe into the fitting instead of over the fitting). Solid looking fittings!

You bet, the poly tubing we used in the video actually first gained in popularity in the US up in the northeast due to its freeze damage resistance. Poly tubing tends to "bend and not break" so it can be left out over winter, even when used above grade. With systems like in the video, all you usually need to do is let gravity drain the water from some low point end caps and you're good to go for winter. The head assembly parts (backflow preventer, filter, regulator) can be easily removed from the hose bib and stored inside. Here is a link to our winterizing video if you wanted to check it out -- it covers the things I mentioned above in a bit more detail (but it really is as easy as it sounds): ruclips.net/video/qOSIav1DiCQ/видео.html

@@dripdepot thank you so much for explaining this!

If it's well drained, I'd lean towards the 1/4" drip line, the materials are just a little bit more flexible. The adjustable emitters on stake can also be left out over winter, but we have seen the adjustment caps get displaced by freezing water trapped in the threads where the adjustment cap is connected to the rest of the assembly. Typically easily fixable, but that's not something that can occur with the 1/4" drip line so it gets the edge, even if by a small margin :)

Thank you so much!

Nope! If you have some end caps at low points, a gravity drain will usually be more than sufficient, even in places with particularly harsh winters. Poly tubing has a "bend but don't break" material property that allows it to be left out over winter, even above ground, so long as it has been reasonably drained. I'd say for poly tubing drip systems, using a compressor is usually the exception rather than the rule. :) Head assembly parts (timer, backflow preventer, filter and pressure regulator) should be stored indoors, but the tubing itself can be safely left out when gravity drained.

people in gardening groups have highlighted that even expensive timers seem to stop working after one season due to water and elements. Especially water reaching the battery compartment somehow. My outdoor spigot is not shielded from the elements at all. Is there anything I can do to protect the (pretty expensive) automatic hose end timer outdoors to make it last (during gardening season) ?

@@mnchnn This is a great question, as it is correct that exposure to the elements will shorten their life span -- particularly direct sun exposure. It's not so much the UV, but the heat generated from sun exposure, particularly on any timer with an LCD screen (the liquid crystals can overheat). If you have any way to create a temporary shade or enclosure for it, that would be best to keep the heat at reasonable levels. Water getting into the battery compartment isn't one I hear about too much -- the hose timers can typically handle rain with no problem, but definitely avoid submersion -- they're water resistant, but not water proof. This would also be from not removing them from winter -- if there's some water left inside and the timer is left outside, the freezing water could expand and cause internal damage that then allows water to enter the battery compartment. With all that said, I find heat damage to be the most common by far, and shade (even if it's something temporary just for the season) will go a long way towards getting its full life expectancy.

Great question -- water hammer arrestors are not always needed, but if you are experiencing any water hammer when the timer valve closed, I would recommend one. I usually recommend one for older houses (whose piping may be older) as well. They're fairly inexpensive and the shock of a sudden change in water flow can eventually lead to damage, so if there's any water hammer (or if you want maximum protection) I'd go with one.

In what order would this be installed with regards to the head assembly? Can it be screwed to the tap first then hose splitter after it?

@@mnchnn You got it -- the most important part is for it to be before the timer -- it sounds like you're thinking something alone the lines of: Arrestor --> Splitter --> Timer --> Head Assembly If so, that is a solid order -- that order will allow the arrestor to absorb the shock of the sudden change in flow when the timer valve shuts. :)

Perfect, thank you for all your help. Much appreciated!

@@mnchnn Any time!

Winterizing a drip system like this is fortunately very easy -- in most cases, you can simply drain the lines of water from a low point end cap and then leave the tubing out over the winter. The backflow preventer, filter and pressure regulator can be stored inside, but the tubing itself is safe to leave out if it's reasonably well drained. :) Here is a link to a winterizing video we made to show how easy it is if you wanted to see it in action: ruclips.net/video/qOSIav1DiCQ/видео.html

Awesome, and you bet, it works great as a normal programmable timer as well -- In my home garden I'm using a standard timer as well and it gets the job done :)

You're very welcome, thank you for the comment as well! :)

And raccoons! Great question -- The easiest and most inexpensive way is to provide them with an easier source of water -- if they don't have to chew through lines to get a drink, they won't, they always prefer the easiest source. If it's your mainline they're chewing into, the mainline can be safely buried (so can emitter line, typically under a layer of mulch, but mulch might not be enough to deter them). There's also a solution that can be injected into the lines that deters them -- it's non-toxic to plants and animals, it just makes the water very unappealing to them. The primary ingredient is castor oil, so they won't want anything to do with it. Flushing the lines after use can also help since it drains the water, which is what they're usually after. With all that said, I've had the best luck by just providing other water sources, even a bird fountain will keep a lot of them from going after the water in your lines.

Michael, thank you for the comment! This is by far the best one I've ever received -- to even be mentioned in the same sentence as either of those distinguished gentlemen is pretty much a career high. Thank you!

In most cases it's best to terminate the run in a cap or plug -- looping it back into the mainline often just uses more material for no benefit. Looping style systems do have benefits on large irrigation systems, but on smaller low pressure drip systems there really is no benefit and can increase costs due to the extra material usage. :)

So far from what you've described (running from a timer connected to a hose bib to irrigate 50 pots with 1/4" drip line and drippers on a stake), you'd be best served by a 25 PSI hose threaded pressure regulator. If the above is correct, this one here would serve you well for many years to come and requires no additional adapters to get connected to other hose threaded connections: www.dripdepot.com/3523 I hope this helps! Don't hesitate to reach out if any other questions come up, happy to help :)

Thank you for the prompt reply!

@@mnchnn Any time! :)

You bet, this is generally pretty easy to do -- if you're using barbed insert or Perm-Loc fittings, removing the tubing from one of them isn't too bad (easier with Loc style than with barbed insert, but both reasonable to do). If you don't need to remove a fitting to make the change, you can simply cut into the tubing where you'd like to add a new fitting and just splice it in to run you new lengths. If you're using compression fittings it's still not too bad -- they are generally regarded as not re-usable, but you can cut them out, add in a new coupling and run your new length from there. All in all, I think you'll have a pretty easy time of it -- drip irrigation is often referred to as "modular" -- in this case it's not just a marketing term, it really is quite modular and pretty easy to add on to and expand at any time. When the time comes for you to make some changes, don't hesitate to drop a line with any questions, we'd be more than happy to assist :)

Thank you for the nice comment Lisa!

Best to open it all the way in most cases. The pressure regulator will regulate the pressure down if it's too high, and having it fully open allows for all the flow to be available for your irrigation system. :)

Does the sound persist the entire time it's running? First let's check to see if it's a trapped air issue -- the turbulence from air can cause a humming (or even hammering) sound at time. To bleed the system of air, remove one of the end caps on the system and just let water run for a few moments -- this will generally allow trapped air to escape. If you can, also pin down the source just in case the hum is coming from one of the head assembly (backflow preventer, pressure regulaor, etc) components :)

The Premium Container Kit (at this link: www.dripdepot.com/124) would probably be the best place to start -- that kit is designed up for up 70 plants of varying sizes. A few more plants than you have, so you may be able to modify the kit to remove additional items you don't need -- most of it just making sure there's enough mainline tubing to get from your water source to your furthest plant, and enough fittings to accomplish your design (mainline elbows for 90° turns, tees if you need to split the tubing anywhere, etc). If it's helpful, here are a couple same designs we made for our container kits -- scroll down a little bit to get to the larger ones that use the 1/2" mainline for more plants: help.dripdepot.com/support/solutions/articles/11000119079-container-garden-sample-layouts I hope this helps!

@@dripdepot thank you!

If we mention the Tootsie Pops too much they won't' be a surprise! My favorite is the chocolate ones -- never thought I'd enjoy a chocolate Tootsie Pop until I tried one, now I have problems saying no to them lol. Thank you for the kind words, truly! What a great way for me to start the week down here on Monday. Happy gardening out your way! :)

Though manufacturers don't like to share the exact recipe with us, I can confirm it is not PVC and is going to be mostly Polyethylene for it UV resistance and molecular stability :)

You bet, any time!

I think you're on the right track :) Like any fitting or adapter, some loss will be incurred by adding it to the head assembly. It's fairly small in its overall length and has a fairly standard channel size (for 3/4" hose bibs) for water to pass through, so it does not cause significant losses. You mentioned passing it through a valve -- is this going to be a solenoid valve? If so, you might want to look into the EZ-Flo Mainline Dispensing units -- the EZ-Flo in this video is designed to operate from a hose bib -- though it can operate downstream of a solenoid valve on a run of pipe or tubing, it's going to take a few additional adapters to get it installed inline since the adapter itself is hose threaded. The mainline dispensing units use a PVC coupling valve instead of a hose adapter -- they're also a bit larger and the additional capacity might come in handy with a 6.8 GPM system flow rate. Unfortunately we haven't made a video for the mainline units yet, but it works very similarly -- just install the adapter (PVC coupling valve in this case) on the irrigation system, fill the tank with fertilizer, and pressure differential will do the rest. In regards to not always wanting to use fertilizer, that should be no problem with either injector (hose or mainline) -- they both come with coupling valves on the tubing that connects to the inline adapter. When you don't want to inject nutrients, you just turn those valves to their off positions, no need to remove the unit or inline adapter. Here is a link to the mainline dispensing systems so you can check it out, just in case it would be better for your application: www.dripdepot.com/main-line-dispensing-system

@@dripdepot Yeah I looked at the mainline ones, unfortionately the cost is huge vs the hose ones. I just won't use it enough to justify the extra cost (ntm like a dummy I already bought the wrong type regulators so I have hose threaded ones already). So I was wondering If I cld make a 2.5g one work in a pinch. And yes it'll be downstream of a solenoid switching valve

@@brianchrisman4331 You bet, I do think you can make the 2.5 gallon one work :) You'll need a couple adapters, but that's fairly normal either way and shouldn't cause any issues -- the channel is short enough that the smaller 3/4" size shouldn't incur any significant losses unless this is a very high flow zone (I wouldn't anticipate heavy losses in the adapter from 6.8 GPM). If you're not using the "Fast" setting on the dial it should empty out at a reasonable rate too, so you won't have to be constantly re-filling it. I can also confirm downstream of the valve is the right place -- this one's not rated for constant pressure, so you're doing it exactly right having it after the control valve. :)

@@dripdepot awesome, thank you for the assistance!

Great question -- layflat manufacturers are of two minds about this -- some say it can be driven over, some say it cannot -- though, all agree, never do so when pressurized. In general I would try to avoid it, particularly if there are any fittings installed in the wall of the layflat -- while damage from driving over it is a fairly low probability (unless we're talking heavy equipment), if it has fittings installed then the odds of damage sky-rocket. Basically this one is a case where it's frequently done (I've done it myself on a friend's farm when making our metal raised bed video!), but do so cautiously and know that damage is possible, even if the odds are on your side. Drip tape I'd never drive over -- even very thickest walled drip tapes are still only fifteen-thousandths of an inch thick (15 Mil) -- while this makes it great for transportation, storage and easy to install, the very thin walls also make it easy to damage inadvertently. :)

Thank you for answering so quickly and thoroughly!

We do actually have a video showing the installation of a tree irrigation system (located here: ruclips.net/video/NkGTXrGkcRM/видео.html). The system we made in the video is fairly small, but it is scalable up to larger systems with a few small changes (larger diameter main/laterals, potentially zoning, etc). The one potential issue with the system in the video is that it's not necessarily ideal in locations with topographical slopes, though this depends on how significant the elevation changes are. Low points in systems with elevation changes will emit more water than at high points since the emitters are not pressure compensating -- if the elevation change is slight, the volume released won't be too different, but if it's enough of a difference the increased pressure could be detrimental (and water can sometimes drain at low points if the low point is under enough pressure). Any rough idea on what the elevation difference would be between the water source and the lowest point trees? With that we can determine how much additional pressure those locations will be under :)

@@dripdepot thanks again for quick response. I’ve seen that video but the process seemed too labor intensive for 1000-2000 trees spread over 2 acres 🙂. I’ll keep studying the options. Thank you!

@@brandonletzko2472 I do agree, at a couple thousand trees it would be pretty labor intensive -- sore fingers wouldn't even begin to describe it :) Another option often used for trees are Microsprinklers -- by comparison, the labor would be minimal in just punching a hole in the mainline, inserting the barb on the microsprinkler and then pushing the stake in near the tree. If you were wanting to stay on direct soil application (drippers), you could consider pressure compensating drip tape (very high cost for that right now though) or even potentially just running poly tubing down the row and punching in pressure compensating drippers at the trees. The labor time (and material costs) would be reasonable and you'd get the benefit of having pressure compensating emitters so that low-point drippers would still be emitting volume very close to high point emitters.

@@dripdepot thank you!

Thank you for the kind words! What a great way to start Friday morning over here :) If any questions come up while you plan and install your system, don't hesitate for a second to reach out, I'll be happy to assist!

Rigorous conditions on an active farm setting is definitely something to account for, good call! The regulator could potentially be mounted in a number of ways, what did you have in mind to mount the regulator to? Also, would that be primarily to protect it from damage? The reason I ask is those Senninger regulators are exceptionally durable, we've seen them them last decades in some pretty harsh environments. :)

This is absolutely true -- we didn't mention it in this video, but 100%, any timer with an LCD screen should be placed in a shady spot if it all possible -- if not possible, some kind of cover, shade or enclosure should be used to protect it. Great comment, thank you!

It is indeed that freeze resistant! At least so long as the lines are drained -- we generally just gravity drain them with some end caps at low points though, you don't even necessarily need a compressor. Poly tubing actually got its start in the US up in the Northeast due to its freeze resistance (it's fairly popular in Canada for the same reason). It has a "bend but don't break" property you don't see in a lot of other pipe/tubing types due to their rigidity. I hesitate to share this anecdote because I always want people to winterize properly, but one time we filled up some poly tubing completely full of water and capped both ends -- we then put it in the freeze for a few weeks, and it came out completely undamaged -- we were actually hoping for damage for our winterizing video, but were out of luck. To anyone reading this, don't let that keep you from winterizing! :)

You're very welcome! If you decide to start planning for a drip system, let us know, happy to answer any questions :)

The two drip line look identical, as the emitters that are responsible for controlling most of the output, are inside the drip line. Even the emitters are going to look very similar other than small (and probably difficult to see) differences in orifice size and flow path. There is one more way to account for sunny vs shady that we didn't mention in the video, and that's emitter spacing -- poly drip line like this is commonly available at 9", 12", 18" and 24" spacing -- this allows someone to go with a wider spacing on the side of the house that doesn't need as much water, and/or a closer spacing on the sides more exposed to the sun.

@@dripdepot Ok. In the video he used a 1/2" mainline and 1/2" dripline with 12" spacing, didnt mention any other dripline being used thats why I got confused. I just ordered the foundation watering kit and it has 2 100' 1/2" drip lines with 12" spacing. I guess if i wanted a higher flow rate I could punch some additional holes in the dripline?

​@@tsjgnlnl Yep, other than the mention at the start, I didn't mention the difference in flow rates again -- the video was getting pretty long at that point so we made some tough decisions in the cutting room floor. And you do have it right (and that's a great suggestion!), you can indeed punch in additional drippers between the ones in the dripline if you end up needing more water on the sunny side of the house.

If any questions come up during the process, don't hesitate to reach out, we'll be happy to assist :)

@@dripdepot Thank you very mich. If you noticed a couple of orders recently, 3 going to the same address, that was me.

​@@JesusistheonetrueGod I did see a couple like that! Did all of yours get free shipping? If not, reply to me here with one of the order numbers so I can make sure, I'd hate for you to pay shipping on one of those when it otherwise would have qualified if it were all in one.

@@dripdepot One of my orders didn't get free shipping because it was just these two items: 0-200 PSI Pressure Gauge - Type : Dry Soil Moisture Meter

@@JesusistheonetrueGod Perfect! Found it and have issued a refund for the entirety of the shipping costs on that one :)

We have seen folks use a heat gun (and hair dyers) to soften the tubing -- definitely take a cautious approach if you go that route, some heat guns can get hot enough (particularly at close range) to melt the tubing. Just enough to get soft and pliable is what you want with the fittings.

@@dripdepot Ok thank you. Sounds like hot water will work just fine.

@@JesusistheonetrueGod You bet! Leaving it in direct sunlight for a bit, in addition to hot water, will make it nice and easy to work with :)

@@dripdepot That sounds like a good idea. I've just got to finish digging around the trees so I can mulch them beforehand.

In many cases you can -- the 1/4" brown and 1/4" black tubing are the same size, so they can pretty much always use the same 1/4" barbed fittings. In the 1/2" label, they're not always the same size, even if they're both labeled 1/2". With the brown 1/2" it's best to check the tubing's inside diameter to see which fittings would be compatible. :)

I wish I could upvote this more than once! This is indeed where every irrigation system starts and it informs many decisions that come after. Thank you for the great comment!

Bottoming out sounds like it could be a little long, but I wouldn't anticipate any problems with water getting from the 1/2" into the 1/4" -- once the lines are full, they become pressurized and the pressure will push the water up into the 1/4" fitting. The 1/4" fittings are typically cut at about 45° so even if it's touching the bottom of the tubing, water will be able to enter it :)

With a gravity setup, you'll typically want to use drippers over spray -- this is because spray emitters typically either require higher pressure, or put out significantly more flow (or both!). With that said, much of this depends on how much elevation you're able to achieve with your gravity water source. If it's elevated quite a bit (40' to 60'), you'll have enough pressure to operate spray type emitters. If there's no hillside, this kind of elevation will not always be possible, in which case pressure would be low enough it would be best to opt for drip type emitters so that each emitter doesn't use up too much of the available pressure and flow :)

@@dripdepot Thank you.

You can use this one with just the 25 PSI regulator if you prefer -- the 40 to 50 PSI regulator is just needed when using it with a non-drip system where pressure exceeds that number (it protects the tank from high pressure). Do you already have the timer? If not, you could use a multi-outlet timer so that each zone runs from its own outlet -- if you already do have the timer, all you'll need to do is move the tank to the outlet for each zone when it's time to water that zone. Alternatively, you could get a EZ-Flo for each zone so that each one as its own, but one can generally be moved pretty quickly since they're all threaded connections. The reason they have to either be moved or have one for each zone is due to constant pressure -- the tank isn't rated for constant pressure, so has to be relieved when the system is not in use -- unfortunately this means it cannot come before the timer and inject for all 3 zones. If any questions come up, please don't hesitate to drop a line, we'll be happy to help!

This is a great question! The 45° cut does not need to face the flow of water -- it's actually the water pressure that pushes water up into the barb and then through into the tubing it's connected to. The 45° angle is actually there for the same reason it's on a hypodermic needle that a phlebotomist uses -- is facilitates and easier entry into tubing than if it were a pure conical shape :)

@@dripdepot Than you!!!

The description is there :) Just below the video is the title, then just below that, on the left hand side you'll see our name and Logo -- the description starts right below that. You'll have to click "more" to expand the description to see the entire thing, but once you do the parts list and links will be there. I hope this helps!

For that particular one in the video, that is correct -- in the time since some new ones have come out though, that allow you to use them in the middle. They're often called "Inline" emitters. Happy to link the two we have below: www.dripdepot.com/inline-360-degree-shrubbler -- This one is the one that's closest to the one in the video. www.dripdepot.com/inline-dripper -- This one is a standard dripper, but one that can be used inline. If you need to use quite a few, 1/4" tubing could be quickly overtaxed -- if that occurs, you can use them in a series on 1/2" or larger mainline tubing as well :)

The tubing across the sidewalk? We ended up using a hose hole bore attachment to send it under the path (it wasn't our house, so best to clean up the trip hazard lol). We filmed that part of it too, but are saving it for a video on using the hole bore tool :)

The conversion from gallons to inches is a little involved, as it's not a direct conversion since one is a unit of volume and one is a unit of distance (and gallons per hour is a measurement of a volume unit per a unit of time). The best way we've found to simplify it is to go off a square foot surface area -- in a square foot, it takes about 0.623 gallons to make up an inch of rain. It can vary depending on the cultivar of tomato, but a 24" diameter root ball is fairly common for popular cultivars of tomato plant. A 24" diameter root ball is just a little over 3 square feet. An inch of rain in a three square foot area would be about 1.96 gallons of water -- with that in mind, you can plan your watering cycles around the flow rate of your emitters :)

@@dripdepot I appreciate the detail! This at least gives me a place to start. I'm new to gardening so there's a lot to figure out.

@@BushRat253 You're very welcome! If any questions come up, you're more than welcome to drop a line, always happy to talk gardening and irrigation! :) And, not to shatter all of our secrets, but believe it or not, when we're watering plants we semi-guess. We pick a watering cycle and just monitor the health of the plants and adjust accordingly. For me and my local climate, this means I usually start with a 10 to 15 minute cycle when the plants are young. As the season progresses, I increase or add a second cycle of the same duration later in the evening. During the hottest part of summer, when the plants are fruiting and water needs are the highest, I usually have two 30 to 60 minute cycles (that's a bit of a big window, depends on how well my soil is retaining moisture and how hot and dry that particular summer is). When it comes to drip, it's hard to go wrong unless you're doing something like really short (5 minutes or less) cycles :)

You're very welcome, any time!